The entry level Semillon has the merest pinch of sugar—three to four grams — to round, soften and lift the grape’s shy aromatics from the start. The dry-farmed Blackberry Vineyard is the Silkman top-shelf Semillon, one of those great, sandy sites, which used to make it’s way into Tyrrell’s benchmark Vat 1 Semillon before the Silkmans scooped the contract (in amiable fashion).