The 2017 Project M Personify Pinot Noir opens with a slide show of aromas: black cherry, forest floor, vanilla, dried purple flowers...repeat. Ripe black cherries are just sweet enough, subjugating the flavors of herb and bramble to a supporting role. These sit atop an abyss of dark earthy flavors, reminiscent of turned earth, that seem infinite and mysterious. The wine's texture reveals a youthful work in progress. Like a glimpse of the renovation of an old theatre just before a grand opening; a few structural elements are exposed, not yet covered with plush curtains and tapestry. Time will complete the project, yielding a rich wrapping around a firm core of tannins.
