Beginning in 2017, Viré-Clessé “En Châtelaine” is a new bottling—50% of which was sourced from vines planted in 1917—and it wasn’t aged in wood at all. Instead, it was fermented and aged in a concrete tank. The result is classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest. It would be perfect alongside baked steelhead trout.