As one of the most northerly grape-growing regions in France, the vineyards in Bourgueil are a challenge to work organically, but the Bretons are not easily deterred. They were early pioneers of the organic philosophy and helped transform the appellation from its reputation as a producer of second-class bistro wines to a veritable natural wine Mecca. The Dilettante is peppery and bright, earthy and juicy all at once.