There is an astonishing and disarming consistency in this wine across the vintages. As a Riserva this has already had ample time to become itself, to show its honest soul: we find rugged soil, icy winters and warming sunshine, we find wilderness and something epic that years cannot smudge or alter. It is muscular and strong. This wine just is. The warming alcohol counters the incisive acidity, the tannins, enmeshed and resolving, still have their drying, unrelenting streak. Dried notes of Marasca cherry still shimmer. With increasing age the savory elements increase: more salt, more herbs, more soil. For me, this all boils down to one word: honesty.
