Brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino own prime land in Barolo country—some of the top vineyards in Monforte d’Alba. While their venerable Barolos belong in every collector’s cellar, it is their beguiling everyday rosso that I find myself craving the most. Its perfumed Nebbiolo fruit and sweet, tender tannins would make a full-grown Barolo look back longingly at its former self, nostalgic for its sprightly youth. Serve it ever-so-slightly chilled.
