It is hard to remember a time when being excited about Gamay was like confessing your love of velour leisure suits. Now that Beaujolais is a requirement on every wine list in the country, it's thrilling times talking about the Loire's take on this variety. Jean-François makes an excellent example of Touraine Gamay, more nervy, high-pitched and mineral than Beaujolais but so satisfying to drink slightly chilled while arguing about the best way to grill a steak.
